Looking Back...

For some reason, I usually don't care to look back into the past.  Too many screwups for comfort?  Lol.  So this is my obligatory look back at the year of sewing. 

First, like a lunatic, I joined the JAM (jacket a month) sewalong on Stitcher's Guild.  I did complete 8 jackets/coats which would have been nine (or 10 really since my first attempt turned into a wadder) but my Chanel style jacket is still in the works.  I have made progress just not as much as I would have liked by this time.  Oh well; I do intend to finish it in 2012.  LOL.

8 jackets/coats
2 housecoats
1 nightie
4 pairs of capri's
2 elastic waisted pants for lounging
3 pairs of jeans
6 tops or blouses
8 knit tops or tees
1 quilted dresser top runner for my brother's Xmas
1 American Girl doll bed with all the appropriate bed clothing for my Heirloom Guild


Wow...it really seems like a lot when you look at it.  It didn't seem like that much as I was making it though.  Hmmm.


I didn't have any specific goals besides the JAM.  There were lots of ladies who did complete their 12 jackets and several more.  I guess I'm in the middle of the pack with only 2/3's completed.  I still feel pretty good about it though.  I think I've learned a lot from all of the different patterns completed.

One of the blouses I made this year did make use of an heirloom technique called "pulled thread replacement".


I did start teaching.  Which has been really, really fun for me.  I love sharing what I know with others.  This has been a real surprise to me.  LOL.


I did start taking classes with Claire Kennedy and she has been a real inspiration, making me stretch my mind, not only into choosing the right colors for myself but also my skills as a sewist.  


Looking ahead to 2012???

I'll continue classes with Claire.

I'll continue teaching others to sew since I enjoy it so much.


I'd like to incorporate more heirloom techniques into adult garments.  And I think I'd like to learn how to make my own bras.  There's a lady in Wichita who teaches.


Other than the above, keep sewing away!  


See you in the New Year!

Just Stuff...

We just returned home from a week in Iowa with my family for Christmas.  It was really nice seeing everyone again.  My brother, who has MS, is looking great.  The new meds he's on have really improved his balance along with everything else.  My sister looks great. 

I hope everyone had a lovely Christmas; I know I did.  Now...just to make this a bit sewing related, this was waiting for me when we returned.  

I haven't started reading it yet, but I hope with the help of this book, I'll be better able to turn out better tailored garments.  Mostly jackets and coats.  LOL. 

I'll have a summary for the end-of-year blog post once I get a few free minutes, I'll sit down and figure out how many garments I made this year.  But this is all I have for today.

Later!

Linen Tunic V8708 Done!!!

Yawzah!  LOL.  I'm really lovin this tunic.  I've taken several shots of the inside because I wanted you to see all of the finish work I did.  Every single seam has been serged and top stitched.  With a loose weave like linen, you really do need to finish every seam.  

I wanted you to see the shirt on Ruby first.  Notice anything?  I modeled it and really thought I would like it much better if I added shoulder pads.  My shoulders slope a bit so by adding a 3/8" pad, its leveled and is much nicer in my opinion.

Here you can see the actual shoulder pads.  They are removable.  I hate how these simple pattern finish the collar on the inside so I used a strip of bias fabric in a matching print.  Much nicer.  I also attached one of my newer labels.  I'm not sure I'll like it, but we'll try it and see.  You can see some of the finishing I've done to the inside.

Another inside view, this time of the front.  I love how using a couple layers of tear-away stabilizer leaves such a nice, clean finish on the inside.

And finally, here I am...squinting in the late afternoon sun...out in the cold...freezing my patootie all for the blog.  LOL.  I didn't wear the new grey jeans as they are in the wash.  But I am wearing the blue ones.  I love the easy, wear-ability of this top.  I was looking through the stash and spotted several likely candidates for more versions.  I have some black peach skin and a black stripe, a black jacquard.  Oh well you get it.  LOL.  It's pretty obvious I like it. 

Later!

Just a Peek...

I'm almost finished sewing this tunic.  It's very easy and I do recommend it.  But for the beginner, it has almost no finishing of inside seams.  Nowhere in the pattern instructions did it say to finish the inside lapel facing.  HUH?  You've got to be kidding right?  The first time they would launder the shirt, it would be a raveled mess. That's my only beef with this pattern.  Otherwise, I love it.  I can see several more versions of this pattern being added to my wardrobe.  I only have to hem it, embroider buttonholes and sew on the buttons and I will take more detailed pictures.  But just so you don't think I would post about it and not give you a peek, here it is.  LOL.  Keep in mind it still needs pressing. 

More Soon!

Tunic progress...

I've completed the embroidery and cut out the left front.  I'm happy with the results.  

The nice thing about marking your pattern on the fabric and then doing the embroidery is that you can move the pattern around on the fabric after you done the embroidery.  You know, in case you didn't quite get the embroidery where you originally intended?  LOL.  Another plus to doing embroidery before cutting is the shrinkage that can occur when you embroider. 

I'll start the construction and get back to you all soon.

More later!

Quick, Easy Tunic...

 Ha!  I usually find a way to make something not so quick or easy.  LOL. 

Today I'm starting what should be an easy Vogue tunic pattern.  I saw V8708 made up in Vogue Pattern magazine an issue or two back and liked what I saw.  I already had the pattern in my stash.  It just so happens that gray is really hot this fall.  And that turns out to be really convenient as I've been making a few things out different grays like the jeans I just finished.  I have a nice washed grey linen I picked up from The Cloth Merchants and will be making a loose, easy going top.  I'll be making view B, the blue top in the center.


I also thought I would like some embroidery.  Come on!  LOL.  You know me by now.  I have to put embroidery on almost everything!  And this top is such a blank canvas that needs something to pick it up a notch.  You know the chef that hosts "Diners, Drive-ins & Dives"?  Guy Fieri?  Well I just love the shirts he wears.  You know, with embroidery or screen printing down one side of the shirt or even both?  I thought it might be cool if I tried something like that on this tunic top.  Why should the guys only have cool shirts anyway?

So started playing around and came up with this concept picture.   


I'm playing around with different designs to make this vertical border.  I've also cut out all the pieces except the left front.  I'm going to embroider it first, then cut it out.  As you know from following for awhile, this is my normal mode of embroidery.  


If this shirt turns out, I may be making several, especially since it looks pretty comfy.  

I've debuted several designs and this is my fav.  It's fairly large, at just a bit over 5X7.  Because I had a fabric sample cut, I reduced it just a bit to make it fit the 5X7 hoop.  I using 2 layers of Sulky's Tear Easy tear-away stabilizer and that proved to be just right for this design.  I want to be able to remove most, if not all of the stabilizer.


Remember by clicking on the picture, you can enlarge to get a better view of the design.  


I'll have more for you tomorrow!

New Reading...

Looky, looky... Amazon dropped these off at my door yesterday.  I snagged these because at some point in the new year, I'm going to sew my first faux suede projects.  Sawyer Brook had a great sale on Equestrian Suede, a lovely muted grape color.  I got it for $10 a yard; it was $40 a yard.  I just couldn't pass it up.  4 yards made it into my hot little hands.  LOL.  When I received it, it was pretty stiff and I wondered if I had made a mistake.  I wrote to Sawyer Brooks staff and asked for washing instructions.  You just wash on cool and dry on low.  It came out so soft and lovely.  I'm really happy with the hand.  

I figure that's enough to make a vest for a starter and then move onto suede jacket of some sort.  So once I read and then select patterns, I'll be off to a great start at learning to work with a fabric I've never tried before.  

More later...

Quiet but busy...

I hope you all had a wonderful Thanksgiving holiday.  Alan and I had a quiet dinner and enjoyed the leftovers yesterday.  We roasted a large chicken instead of a turkey but the rest of our dinner was quite traditional.  

I know I haven't posted for a little bit, but I have been sewing.  An outfit to be exact.  LOL.  I finished another pair of the Burda jeans; this time in a brushed grey cotton twill with a touch of lycra purchased from The Cloth Merchants.  I'm in love with this pattern.  I did wind up cutting it down to an 18 and still took in the back seam (at the waist) about an inch.  Other than those 2 changes, that was it.  I used a brass 6" jeans zip from Atlanta Thread Supply.  I used 2 spools of thread threaded in my Ellisimo to do the top stitching.  I had a pretty paisley cotton which I used for the pocket bags and inside waist facing.   Again, I didn't use any back pockets or belt loops.  I don't use either so I won't spend all that time on something that won't even be seen much less used.  LOL.

Oh...I forgot; I did make one other change.   In the latest issue of Threads, on page 54, is an article on pocket stays.  Talk about perfect timing!  So I drafted the pieces as they show it in the article.  I really believe this gives my jeans a real, professional look on the inside.

I did use Debbie's Cooks tutorials on the waistband and the fly front.  

I think I have about 5 pairs of jeans in the queue to make with this pattern.  I won't ever purchase another pair of jeans since these are so comfortable.  In fact, right now I'm wearing the blue pair I made as a muslin for this pattern.  Love it!!!!

Now for the matching shirt.  In another issue of Threads, Gee I sound like a broken record.  LOL.  In issue 156, on page 36, I used their example of hem detail to add to my favorite shirt pattern Simplicity 2339.  Here are a few pics of it.

As I've said before, I really love this shirt pattern and have totally made it my own.  LOL.  The fabrics in the shirt all go well with the grey jeans and I've several more tops to make that will coordinate with them.

Burda Jeans Done!!!

The jeans are complete!  I'm pretty surprised at well they fit me right out of the box so to speak.  Remember I cut a size 20, but I think I could have gotten away with an 18 or possibly a 16.  I think I'll keep the sizing as is and adjust for each fabric type.  I would need the extra room in the hips for fabric with less stretch.   I had to nip out 1.5" at the waist.  They turned out pretty nice except for a few mistakes I made.  This is the first "real" pair of pants I've made in over 20 years.  This pattern doesn't include a fly shield; I'll put one in on the next pair.  I didn't make my waistband long enough so I had to add an extension so I could attach the button.  I didn't use the back pockets on this pair.  I was really trying for the look of a pair of "Not Your Daughters Jeans" that I really love and they've come really close.  I got a package of jeans buttons from JoAnn's and when I installed it, the screw bent and went in at an angle.  Its functional and no one is really going to see it so no big deal.  LOL.  I'll have to work on my hammering technique.  

Oh...I must mention, I used Debbie Cook's waistband tutorial.  And on the next pair of jeans, I'll use her fly installation tutorial.  If you're not familiar with Debbie's blog its Stitchesandseams.blogspot.com.  Debbie has lots of very helpful tutorials not only on garment construction but also on serger and coverstitch techniques.  Check it out if you get a chance.  Debbie's blog is one of the very first I started following when I discovered Blogland.  LOL.

And here I am in my new jeans.  I'm going to wear them all day today and see if they pass the wear test.  If they get too baggy, I'll know to take in the next pair a bit more.   The sun was in my eyes, hence the squinting, and its windy and chilly.  I was telling Alan to hurry the heck up.  LOL.

More Later!

Jean Pattern Decision Made...

Well I read through all 3 patterns from my last posting and decided to try to work with the Burda jean pattern.  Since my hips are 43", I cut the size 20 (UGH).  That just wrong.  LOL.  I added 2 inches for my height.  Burda designs for a person who is 5.5 height and I'm 5.8.  I've put the back together and now I'm working on the front.  

I'm cleaning house but hope to have some progress pictures for you soon.

Lata!

To Jean or not to Jean...

That is the question.  LOL.  Really.  I want to make jeans and I have quite a few patterns to pick from.  I prefer denim with bit of lycra for comfort as I'm all about comfort these days.  

Okay...the first pattern I'm considering is the Jalie jean (2908) that everyone was just nuts over a couple of years ago.  View B the regular rise (in tan) would be my choice.  I don't go for low rise but do like them to sit just an inch or so below my belly button.  I really don't go for the "MOM" jean look.  LOL.


I followed the jean sewalong at Stitcher's Guild and got lots of notes for making this pattern.  So hopefully I'll have a head start when it comes to using this pattern.


I also have a favorite pair of jeans that I'm going to use to try to replicate the fit.

 View A (in black) is my preference here.  I need to read up on PatternReview to see if anyone has made these jeans.  You never know, it could help with my decision. 

And finally Kwik Sew 3315.  View B but with the straight legs.  


So here are my picks from the 11 jeans patterns I own.  The others are Butterick 5403, McCall's 5142 & 5894, McCall's 6405 and finally Vogue 7608.

I'm going to do a little more reading and then I'll post back with the final pattern choice.

Later...

Earthquake

We had a bit of an Earthquake last night; 5.6 on the Richter scale.  We were getting ready for bed about 10:55 pm and heard, what we thought, was a low-flying airplane.  But the sound and then shaking, picked up and it seemed to take forever for it to stop.  The authorities say this was the most powerful quake in Oklahoma recorded history & we have earthquakes all the time, over 100 for 2010.  But this is our first experience.  All I can say is "Weird"!!!

Taking a little time...

It's the time of year when I start making more soups and stews to match up with the cooler weather we're now getting.  The other day we had a yummy Loaded Baked Potato Soup.

Soup and a couple pieces of a crusty Asiago french bread make up a perfect meal. 

I'm getting started on a couple of T's and to fit a jeans pattern.  I'm not sure which jeans pattern yet but I'll take a look at what I've got and show you the narrowed down choices.

More soon!

McCall's 5984 Complete!

I must say I really enjoyed making this jacket.  I just love the fit and feel of it.  LOL.  In a nutshell, here are the changes I made to the pattern.

• 1.25" FBA
• Added 2 inches in length
• Removed the huge back pleat
• Added a 1inch pleat in the back lining
• Added a sleeve head
• Fabric used was wool flannel and poly charmeuse from Hancock Fabrics

I highly recommend the pattern and I may make it again without embroidery and in a longer version.

Here are some details of the insides. 

I know its a little hard to see but this is the hand embroidery to hold the lining pleat in place.  I did this at the neck and waist. 

This is the embroidery on the inside.  Notice I didn't make it the same as the outside.  I started out the same at the neckline (where it would show) and then reduced the number of flowers to lessen the weight of the embroidery.  I was getting concerned that it might get too heavy.  I also digitized a label and I've started including a date.  LOL.  I can't remember how long ago I made some of my garments so now I get help.

I thought you might like to see the humongous snaps I applied.  They're called for by the pattern and I really love the look.  But, I'll warn you, since they can show if you leave slightly unsnapped, you need to make sure they look nice when you sew them on.  I didn't have any trouble with placement because I just chalked a line around the snap itself before sewing.  Also, another thing to be aware of is don't sew you snap to the pocket linings!  LOL.  I thought I was all done and realized that I'd sewn a pocket practically shut with one of the bottom snaps.  All I can say is that it was late at night.  I shouldn't sew after 10pm.  Grin.

Odds & Ends...

It's been really busy around our household this last month.  I've been teaching 2 classes a week with one finishing up just last Friday.  I attended another 3 day class to work on my Chanel style jacket with Claire Kennedy in OKC.  So much fun, but so tiring too!  I'll share new pictures of my progress on that jacket soon.

Along with teaching, fall cleanup around the yard has been my big priority.  The flower bed in the front which we kind of let go this year has had 2 long sessions of cleaning out.  My poor crepe myrtles suffered from the extreme cold we had last winter.  I pruned out lots of dead wood so we lost at least a couple years of growth.  I'm pretty unusual in that I let my crepe myrtles turn into trees here.  I just get rid of all the suckers that grow from the bottoms and keep them tree'd up.  Most everyone in OK whacks off the top of the poor things so they'll get more flowers.  But I've noticed that I get just as many flowers on my non-whacked trees.   What with ice storms, extreme cold and drought, our mature trees (we had 4 over 40 year olds) have all bit the dust.  We took out the last white mulberry a few weeks ago and now we're looking to replant.  Money, money, money.  Whew!  We're probably going to spend about $1000 on 2 trees.  Ackkkk!  But it will be worth it.  We're getting a northern red oak and a purple redbud.  That oak is the money tree.  Grin.  I wish.  But they'll have to use a bobcat to get into the backyard and probably dismantle part of our fencing too.  The rootball will weigh somewhere around 1800 pounds!!!!

Alan has been working on finishing up his new shop.  His plan is to complete putting up the insulation in the roof by the end of the week.  I'll have to get some new pictures of it to show you all.  I think the last time I put up a pic, it was still just a skeleton.  

I've been working on my McCall's 5984.  It's done!  Except to take pictures.   I really like it and I can tell I'll be wearing it a lot.  I'll take pictures tomorrow when the light is better (maybe even outside) and discuss what I did with it.


Later!

MIA...

Sorry I know I've been missing for a bit.  It's been pretty hectic around here.  I attended another Chanel jacket class for 3 days this past week.  And I've been teaching.  There's more teaching coming up and another jacket class.  Yikes!  So I'm in panic mode trying to get everything done that I need to accomplish.  Oh...did I mention my hubby would like to be fitted into my busy schedule for a little attention too?  LOL. 

But having said that, I do have a few pictures to show you.  On the wool flannel jacket, this is a picture of my applying a sleeve head.  Not having done it before, I just followed the directions for it on page 87 of the Palmer/Pletsch book Jackets for Real People.  Easy peasy!  LOL.

I also had the chance to visit Helen Enox Fabric store while I was in OKC for Claire's class.  And I found this yummy 100% silk jacquard to use as a lining for a future jacket project.  The photo doesn't do the fabric colors justice; the colors are actually brighter.  But don't you just love the jewel tones?

I'll have more photos to post as soon as I figure out how to get them off my iPad!  LOL!

M5984 Progress & lousy photos

It's late afternoon and my pictures aren't very good.  Arghhh.  

Here's the front put together.  TWICE.  Yes twice.  This jacket is seriously loose fitting.  I put it together the first time and put it on Ruby and it was like WHOAAA.  LOL.  So, I took it apart and cut the pieces down from a 16 to a 14.  Put it together again and its still loose but its a loose I can live with. 

I also put the pockets together about 15 times yesterday.  I guess my head wasn't in the game and I just didn't realize it.  LOL.  I kept putting them wrong side to right side.  Gah...

Here's a side view.  If you look at the armhole area, you'll see that I need to reshape it.  I did topstitch all the seams to give it a more casual look.

Next lousy picture.  Grin.  This is the collar before cutting it out.  I've laid out the piece and drawn a chalk line around it.  Next I'll embroider it.  Actually embroider both pieces and then seam them together.

That's all I've got for today. 

Later!

Embroidered Pieces...

I've completed the embroidery on 2 large pieces of fabric; one of which is shown is the picture.  For this pattern, I'm using PerfectFuse LIGHT as my interfacing which also shows in the picture.

I don't remember if I've mentioned it, but I've been looking around the Internet for a steam press for block fusing.  I finally found what I was looking for at a price I felt I could afford without saying ouch!  LOL.  I put this new toy tool to use this weekend to fuse these large pieces.  Wow!  I love this thing!  I really like my Reliable Iron so I started looking at Reliables other products.  I found they produce 2 steam presses; the Empressa S330 and the S550.  The difference between the two is size.  The S330 is 25"X10" and the S550 is 34"X11".  I started looking around on Ebay and found a company that sells factory reconditioned 550's with a one year warranty (same as a brand new 550) for half the MSRP.  Yes...half the price!!!   So I purchased the S550.  It's a great machine.  Love it, love it, love it.  LOL.

Here's a pic of my new baby!

And this shows how large the pressing surface is.

Pretty cool, eh?   I have constructed both pocket welts and cut out the front pieces from the embroidered fabric I created.  Now I'm off to sew.  

More later!

M5954 Embroidery test run

  Here is my selection from testing different embroidery designs.  This is one of the front v-shaped sections that will form part of the lapel.  I just love the classy look of tone on tone embroidery, don't you?  It's going to take me awhile to make the embroidered fabric.  There are 4 v-shaped pieces and 2 collar pieces.  And...if I decide to have the collar standing up, there will be 2 more pieces.  LOL.
 

I've made up one of the pocket welts to see if I liked it made up and I do.  I really don't know what happened to the blue in this photo.  Cameras!  Bah!   The color of the fabric is the photo above.  I'm happy with it and I think it's going to be a nice look.

I do have enough fabric to re-cut the piece if I decided against it at a later date.  LOL.

McCall's 5984

Now that the robe is off the plate, I can get to another jacket.  I think this is number 7 this year.  I have a nice piece of wool flannel I got at Hancock Fabrics, of all places.  Every once in a while you can luck out and find something nice.  LOL.  When I went to the Vogue pattern's site, I found 5984 is already an OOP.  Figures when I'm just now getting around to making it.  I guess I'll never be fashion forward, just behind. 
I really love the look of this jacket, swingy but not too swingy.  Those of us with pear shapes know about that.  The only thing I don't really care for is that center back pleat.   Not for me.  Grin.  Needless to say, I'll be folding out that pleat when I make my version.

Here's that pretty denim blue wool flannel and a poly charmeuse lining fabric from Hancock's also.  I purchased 3.5 yards at the time not knowing what I would make, just that I liked the fabric.  I guess I've had it for a couple of years now.  I had to examine every inch of the fabric for anything wrong and found 2 small spots that I marked with thread tacks.  Knowing my luck, if I didn't mark them, I would cut out pieces right on top of the rub/worn marks.  

I spent a couple of hours making my changes to the pattern.  Since it's a Palmer/Pletsch pattern, it was easy with the lines already drawn where you have to cut.  So...I made 1.25 inch FBA and added 2 inches to all 4 pieces.  As you know, pattern companies draft for a person 5'5"-5'6".  Since I'm 5'8" that's 2 inches for me.  


My plan is to embroider tone-on-tone color on the lapel pieces, the collar and the welt pockets.  I'm shopping my embroidery collection and testing out designs.  When I've made a decision, I'll report back.


More Later!

Winter Robe Progress...

Done!!!!  This will be such a cozy, warm robe.  I finally finished it up late last night.  I wanted it off my plate.  LOL.  I love the feel of it on me.  Why haven't I made any clothing out of flannel before?  I'm contemplating a shirt/jacket or two out it now, especially since there are so many beautiful flannels out at the quilting stores.  Here's a picture of the completed robe.  If you click on the picture, you can see the little bits of embellishment I did to perk it up somewhat.  There are a few scattered baby buttons in coordinating colors and just a few tiny sequins.  I also did tons of serging to finish all the seams.  Although I didn't have any trouble with raveling while I was sewing, I knew that would change with wear.  And I top and edge-stitched all the seams.  I really think it looks like the pattern envelope picture!  

Parting shot...

I made this little mini meatloaf for Alan last night.  Another Food channel demon.  LOL.  It's some of my fresh breakfast sausage mixed 50/50 with hamburger, bread crumbs, salt, pepper, Worcestershire & beaten egg.  While I had my usual Greek salad, Alan munched down on this little number.  I did get one bite and I must say it was reallllly good! 

More later!

1 Step forward, 3 back...

You know, some days it just doesn't pay to get up.  LOL.  I can laugh now that I have my mess fixed.  But, in Claire's class, we discovered my fashion fabric (the boucle') had a distinctly greenish cast on one side and pinker cast on the other.  So....since green definitely isn't one of my colors, we use the pinker side.  Well - guess who forgot?  If you guessed me, you would be correct.  Gah!!!  I had to unpick at least 6 quilted pieces, maybe 8, I forget how many.  Remembering to put wrong sides together for me is very difficult.  Now you know silk leaves needle marks in it.  So I had to be very careful in re-quilting the relaid pieces.  I now have only 2 more pieces left to quilt and I'll be done with all the quilting. 

Now for a little fun, more creative interlude.  LOL.  I went to Loops yesterday hoping to find another yarn or two to add to my braid palette for the jacket trim.  I found a couple.  These pictures really don't do them justice.  All the yarns I purchased are really pretty.  Please click on the picture to zoom in on this gorgeous yarn.  The 2 pictured at the bottom are the new ones from Loops.  The thick one at the top is the braid I made from twisting the 3 together.  I love the way it looks.  I'm going to work up a mock-up of a braid trim and when I have something, I'll post a picture for you.

Since I've been correcting the mistake I made with the quilted pieces, I haven't been able to get back to working on my winter robe.  Hopefully soon.

More later...

Chanel Progress...

Previously, I showed you the basted pieces.  Now this is a piece that has been quilted.  This is all I'm doing right now, basting and quilting ALL the pieces together.  There are sixteen separate pieces to this jacket.  I have four more to do and I'll have my homework done for the next Claire K. class where we'll start actual construction.  

I've been doing a little running around looking for yarns to make my trim and have found a couple of good possibilities.  These dark teals should set it off really nice.

I'm going to finish basting/quilting the last four pieces then stop.  I'll be going back to the winter robe project.  I'm itching to get it done.  LOL.

More Later...

Pictures!

See...I do keep my promises.  LOL.  Here are a couple of pictures showing my fabric choices for the jacket.  They also show how I laid out a sleeve piece on the fabric and have basted it down.  I'll be drawing my quilting design on it with chalk and sewing it out. 

Oh, I think I forgot to mention last night that Claire re-drafted my one piece sleeve into a 3 piece sleeve.   I just love the fit!

Here's a closeup of the basting.  Click on the picture to enlarge it.

Btw, I had to lighten the pics.  Even with a bit better lighting during the day, it's still not optimum.

Lata!