Winter Jacket, etc.

I changed my mind.  LOL.  The coat/jacket project is back on but I've changed the pattern.  I think I finally am able to put my finger on my issue with that pattern.  I've never really cared for the fit of an armhole princess style.  If I make a princess style, I really prefer the shoulder cut instead.  I should have remembered and not put myself through all the work of that muslin.  So I've put that pattern and muslin aside and have found another newer pattern I'm liking even better.

Butterick 5823 -  I like the seaming detail; it's basically a shoulder princess style.  It's a loose-fitting, lined double-breasted with welt pockets and I've already cut out the tissue and fitted it to Ruby.  As usual, I'll cut the size 16 from the neck through the upper waist and finally end up with a 20 at the hips.  I've added 2 inches in length to each of the pattern pieces.  The sleeve length is fine, its just too full at the wrist so I'll be narrowing down the sleeve so it doesn't look so baggy on my arms.

There's really not a whole lot of shaping going on, although, there are places you could slim it down like the back and side seams.  But that would defeat the purpose of a loose-fitting jacket. 

This really all the progress I have to report today.  I expect to get the coat cut out within the next day or so and actually start putting it together.  It's a pretty straight forward project with no real surprises.

Did you all have a lovely Christmas?  I had a great time with family up north.  Our drive was delayed by that huge snowstorm and we got to see all the idiots in the ditch who just HAD to drive in that crazy weather.  I'll bet I counted over 50 semi's alone off the road along I-80 between Des Moines and Davenport.  And this happens every snowstorm.  You think people would learn to pay attention to weather reports.

Ah well I got one really useful present from the parents; Susan Khalje's Bridal Couture.  I haven't had a chance to dig into it yet but soon.

Later!

Burda 7220 - Cowl Neck

I apologize ahead of time for these pictures.  Its so cloudy outside I just can't get a decent shot.  One of these days I'm really going to have to learn more about this camera.  LOL.  That said, I really like this top.  It's very comfortable (I'm all about comfort these days) and easy to make.  I'll be making a couple more in the near future.

One thing to take note:  the sleeves are seriously long.  I took 4 inches off the length and still wound up with 7/8 sleeves.  Not really what I was going for but I'll deal.  LOL.  I made up my normal size 16 at the neck and shoulders graduating down to an 18 at the hips. 

It's cute; it's comfortable and it's easy.  What more could you ask for?  LOL.

There's not going to be much sewing over the next 2 weeks.  We're spending some time with family and I'll be doing lots of cooking.


I hope you all have a very Merry Christmas and be safe!

Later!

Coat Mojo is gone, gone, gone

With our weather alternating between 40's and 70's (it's supposed to be 68 today), the itch I had to make a coat/jacket has disappeared.  Poof!  I just can't get into it.  Sigh.  I really do need a jacket.  Everything I have is either too casual or too heavy.  Maybe in January I can get the coat mojo working again.

Soooo...I'm ALWAYS ready to make another top.  LOL   I'm working on a new-to-me Burda pattern,7220 view B.  This is a cute cowl neck almost Sewing Workshop type pattern.  It's got a nice pleat in the front and an off center one in the back & a buttoned pleat on each sleeve.  They're using crepe backed satin for their version.  But I have a nice rayon batik from Sawyer Brook that has been marinating for several years in my stash; I think it will work nicely here.  I purchased 1/4 yard of some matching crepe satin for the small tab looking thing in the front and for the sleeve cuff. 

Oh, I thought I would mention since the technical drawings don't show it, but there are darts in this pattern. 

I have the front & back put together and the neckline complete.  It's really looking nice.  You'll have to excuse the summery look of the fabric; it was in the stash.  LOL.

I think by making this 3/4 sleeved, I'll be able to make this a 3 season blouse.  

 Here's a little closer view of the draped front.  It just naturally falls this way; I didn't have to do a thing.  Quite pretty.

And a quick view of the back with that big pleat.  I'm betting this would like nice as a sleeveless top too.

Well this is all I have for now.  I'm hoping to get this finished in the next couple of days.

Later!

The Great Pumpkin...Charlie Brown

Okay; don't laugh...at least not too hard.  LOL.  I ran out of regular muslin fabric and didn't feel like running out to purchase more when I have all this old quilting fabric hanging around not being useful.  Sooooo, I used this pumpkin fabric I've had marinating for about 20 years.  I know I got it in Florida.  I remember it being a bit costly at the time, since it had metallic in the design.  I think it cost all of $6.00 a yard.  LOL 

 Pumpkins are apropos for this time of year, no? 

It's a fairly heavy fabric and more able to mimic the wool/cashmere blend I'll be using for the real deal.  I started out cutting the size 18 since I thought the 16 would be just too fitted for me, it just wasn't the case.  When I made it up, the 18 just looked baggy in the shoulder area on me so I re-cut the pieces down to a 16 for the upper body, out to my more normal 18-20 for the hips.   I was so worried my normal 16 would be "too fitted" I caused myself extra work. 

Have you ever done that?  Sigh.

My manikin Ruby is just a touch smaller than I am and there's no help in the photo dept so you'll just have to make do with manikin pictures.  LOL.  I don't know if I want pictures floating around the internet with me wearing pumpkin fabric anyway.  LOL.

Later!

Butterick 5535 - Coat

This will be the one winter coat I'll be making for the season.  You can still get it, but its on the site as an OOP.  It's pretty simple; semi-fitted, lined jacket with collar, bust darts, patch pockets and princess seams.  I'm going to make the one in the center picture, view B.  Initially I was going to make it from a piece of grey plaid wool flannel I picked up at an estate sale but I really don't feel like matching plaids right now.  So I'm making it easy on myself by using a wool/cashmere blend I purchased at the Cloth Merchants a couple of years ago.  It's at the cleaners getting prepped for sewing.

I will be making a few changes though.  (Don't I always?)  I'll be adding 2 or 3 inches in length.  Since this is a semi-fitted coat, I'm going up one size; I really don't want it THAT fitted.  LOL.  

I'm not a fan of patch pockets so I'm going to try a new technique I found in my Threads archive.  It's called "No-clip welt Pockets".  If you have the archive (or the magazine), it's found in issue #91 on pages 48-49.

It's pretty ingenuous really: you simply fit the double-welt pocket between the seams of a princess style jacket!  I was so pumped when I found this article!  LOL.

Needless to say, I'll be making a muslin to see if going up one size & all the various changes will work with what I need to do to get the fit I'm looking for in this style.  And I'll probably do a practice run on the new pocket. 

Well that's all I have for today!  I hope you're having a nice weekend.

Later!

Grrrrrrrr...

I am not happy!  The Reliable (ha!) V100 iron I purchased in July of 2011 has died an ignominious death at only 16 months of age.  The heating element went kaput.  This happened on Friday morning after my 20 year old serger forgot how to be tense.  I messed with it for over an hour trying to get the tension reset.  I guess there is a burr on a looper or something.  I took it in to B-Sew Inn for servicing and problem detection and brought home a Babylock Eclipse sx to use while I wait for the old one to be fixed.  So I start sewing away and go to use the iron and I'm wondering why it's taking so long to heat up.  I finally figured out it had given up the ghost.  Sigh.  Friday was not a good day for me.  I am now using my backup; a Rowenta that has a leaky tank.  So I have heat but no steam.

Sooooo, anyone have a good iron to suggest that may last more than a mere 16 months?

Later!

My service project for the year

Each year our guild (Tulsa Smocking & Heirloom Sewing) performs a service for the community.  We make fetal demise gowns for the unfortunate children who don't make it to term.  Each member makes 2 tiny bonnets and 2 gowns (one set for the baby's burial & the other is presented to the parents) which are then donated to an area hospital.

Here's a couple pictures of my completed gowns & bonnets:

Last year my gowns were white; this year I thought blue would be nice.

Later!


PS.  Our groups trip to NYC was postponed.  Oh well, I'd rather go in the spring anyway.