McCall's 5984 Complete!

I must say I really enjoyed making this jacket.  I just love the fit and feel of it.  LOL.  In a nutshell, here are the changes I made to the pattern.

• 1.25" FBA
• Added 2 inches in length
• Removed the huge back pleat
• Added a 1inch pleat in the back lining
• Added a sleeve head
• Fabric used was wool flannel and poly charmeuse from Hancock Fabrics

I highly recommend the pattern and I may make it again without embroidery and in a longer version.

Here are some details of the insides. 

I know its a little hard to see but this is the hand embroidery to hold the lining pleat in place.  I did this at the neck and waist. 

This is the embroidery on the inside.  Notice I didn't make it the same as the outside.  I started out the same at the neckline (where it would show) and then reduced the number of flowers to lessen the weight of the embroidery.  I was getting concerned that it might get too heavy.  I also digitized a label and I've started including a date.  LOL.  I can't remember how long ago I made some of my garments so now I get help.

I thought you might like to see the humongous snaps I applied.  They're called for by the pattern and I really love the look.  But, I'll warn you, since they can show if you leave slightly unsnapped, you need to make sure they look nice when you sew them on.  I didn't have any trouble with placement because I just chalked a line around the snap itself before sewing.  Also, another thing to be aware of is don't sew you snap to the pocket linings!  LOL.  I thought I was all done and realized that I'd sewn a pocket practically shut with one of the bottom snaps.  All I can say is that it was late at night.  I shouldn't sew after 10pm.  Grin.

MIA...

Sorry I know I've been missing for a bit.  It's been pretty hectic around here.  I attended another Chanel jacket class for 3 days this past week.  And I've been teaching.  There's more teaching coming up and another jacket class.  Yikes!  So I'm in panic mode trying to get everything done that I need to accomplish.  Oh...did I mention my hubby would like to be fitted into my busy schedule for a little attention too?  LOL. 

But having said that, I do have a few pictures to show you.  On the wool flannel jacket, this is a picture of my applying a sleeve head.  Not having done it before, I just followed the directions for it on page 87 of the Palmer/Pletsch book Jackets for Real People.  Easy peasy!  LOL.

I also had the chance to visit Helen Enox Fabric store while I was in OKC for Claire's class.  And I found this yummy 100% silk jacquard to use as a lining for a future jacket project.  The photo doesn't do the fabric colors justice; the colors are actually brighter.  But don't you just love the jewel tones?

I'll have more photos to post as soon as I figure out how to get them off my iPad!  LOL!

M5984 Progress & lousy photos

It's late afternoon and my pictures aren't very good.  Arghhh.  

Here's the front put together.  TWICE.  Yes twice.  This jacket is seriously loose fitting.  I put it together the first time and put it on Ruby and it was like WHOAAA.  LOL.  So, I took it apart and cut the pieces down from a 16 to a 14.  Put it together again and its still loose but its a loose I can live with. 

I also put the pockets together about 15 times yesterday.  I guess my head wasn't in the game and I just didn't realize it.  LOL.  I kept putting them wrong side to right side.  Gah...

Here's a side view.  If you look at the armhole area, you'll see that I need to reshape it.  I did topstitch all the seams to give it a more casual look.

Next lousy picture.  Grin.  This is the collar before cutting it out.  I've laid out the piece and drawn a chalk line around it.  Next I'll embroider it.  Actually embroider both pieces and then seam them together.

That's all I've got for today. 

Later!

M5954 Embroidery test run

  Here is my selection from testing different embroidery designs.  This is one of the front v-shaped sections that will form part of the lapel.  I just love the classy look of tone on tone embroidery, don't you?  It's going to take me awhile to make the embroidered fabric.  There are 4 v-shaped pieces and 2 collar pieces.  And...if I decide to have the collar standing up, there will be 2 more pieces.  LOL.
 

I've made up one of the pocket welts to see if I liked it made up and I do.  I really don't know what happened to the blue in this photo.  Cameras!  Bah!   The color of the fabric is the photo above.  I'm happy with it and I think it's going to be a nice look.

I do have enough fabric to re-cut the piece if I decided against it at a later date.  LOL.

McCall's 5984

Now that the robe is off the plate, I can get to another jacket.  I think this is number 7 this year.  I have a nice piece of wool flannel I got at Hancock Fabrics, of all places.  Every once in a while you can luck out and find something nice.  LOL.  When I went to the Vogue pattern's site, I found 5984 is already an OOP.  Figures when I'm just now getting around to making it.  I guess I'll never be fashion forward, just behind. 
I really love the look of this jacket, swingy but not too swingy.  Those of us with pear shapes know about that.  The only thing I don't really care for is that center back pleat.   Not for me.  Grin.  Needless to say, I'll be folding out that pleat when I make my version.

Here's that pretty denim blue wool flannel and a poly charmeuse lining fabric from Hancock's also.  I purchased 3.5 yards at the time not knowing what I would make, just that I liked the fabric.  I guess I've had it for a couple of years now.  I had to examine every inch of the fabric for anything wrong and found 2 small spots that I marked with thread tacks.  Knowing my luck, if I didn't mark them, I would cut out pieces right on top of the rub/worn marks.  

I spent a couple of hours making my changes to the pattern.  Since it's a Palmer/Pletsch pattern, it was easy with the lines already drawn where you have to cut.  So...I made 1.25 inch FBA and added 2 inches to all 4 pieces.  As you know, pattern companies draft for a person 5'5"-5'6".  Since I'm 5'8" that's 2 inches for me.  


My plan is to embroider tone-on-tone color on the lapel pieces, the collar and the welt pockets.  I'm shopping my embroidery collection and testing out designs.  When I've made a decision, I'll report back.


More Later!